How does auto-focus work?
Without thinking about it we all of us use this invaluable feature every time we click on the shutter button. Most modern cameras include some sort of an auto focus system. Thanks to the auto focus system we can enjoy an easier photography experience and can concentrate on composing the right photo and capturing the moment rather than on manually setting the focus.
However automatic focus does have some limitations. For example sometimes one might want to produce photos which are a bit fuzzy as an artistic expression. Also the auto focus implementation has its limitations and in some scenarios it might fail. One example is using a high end SLR camera with a passive auto focus system to take a picture of blue skies. In most cases the camera will move its motor back and forth and will eventually give up and fail to focus.
In order to better use the auto focus system it would help to understand high it actually works. Although implementations can vary we can divide them all into two categories: passive and active. Most pocket cameras use the cheaper passive method while high end professional cameras use either the active or a combination of both.
Passive auto focus:
Passive auto focus can be perceived as imitating how we set the focus manually. The camera defines one or more regions in the picture (usually they are marked as rectangles on the viewfinder or the LCD). The camera then analyzes the picture seen through those regions and calculates a Focus Level number. The camera then tries to move its lenses back and forth as it recalculates the Focus Level. The camera looks for a position where the Focus Level is the highest. For that point if the Focus Level is above a predefined threshold the camera would define this region of the photo as being in focus.
The Focus Level can be calculated in many ways. The common attribute of all calculations is figuring out how much Contrast is there in the photo. Although not in the scope of this article one way to calculate such a number is by running the photo through a high frequency filter – this is based on the fact that high contrast is associated with high frequencies.
Active auto focus:
Active auto focus works by measuring the distance between the camera and the object in the picture. Technically if you knew the exact distance to the object you are taking a picture of you could set the lens to the exact focus position. The active focus system shoots a beam of invisible light, usually infrared, at the object at the center of the picture and measures the distance to that object. Based on that distance the focus is set.
Combined auto focus:
Some high end cameras combine both systems. The camera will pick the right system for the specific scenario or will cross check and use both at the same time. The photographer can also decide manually to use one of the two options. For example when shooting blue skies the camera can try to use the active system and measure the distance. Since the distance is infinite the camera can set the focus and skip the passive focus. In other cases when the distance is not infinite the camera can use the active system to put the lens in approximately the right position and then use the passive system for fine tuning. In dark scenarios the camera can opt to use the active system since the passive one will not work.
Why doesn’t the auto focus work all the time?
Even with all the electronics and computing power in the camera there will always be scenarios where the camera auto focus fails. Failure can be when the camera can not focus and the picture is fuzzy or sometimes when the picture is actually in focus but the camera “thinks” that it is not.
What causes such cases? The list is long but here are just a few examples:
- - Taking low light pictures: The passive auto focus system needs to “see” the picture in order to work and in low light scenarios this is not possible. Some systems use a series of flashes to overcome this limitation but this solution fails many times. An active system can measure the distance to the object in such scenarios but will fail if the object is not in the center of the picture or if there are a few objects at different distances.
- - Active systems can fail with objects that tend to absorb the infrared beam they are using. Some materials absorb infrared beams and will cause the active system to measure the wrong distance. In some scenarios other infrared sources such as candles and open flame fires can render the active system useless.
- - Low contrast objects such as white walls or blue skies. The passive auto focus relies on the fact that the Focus Level changes significantly when moving the lens back and forth. This allows the camera to settle on the right focus position. The Focus Level of low contrast objects does not change much and fails the passive system.
Understanding the auto focus system & how it works helps a photographer understand why sometimes the camera can not focus. In such scenarios the photographer can look for other solutions. Sometimes the photographer will have to use the manual focus. In other cases focusing on another object in the picture that is in the same distance but easier to focus on and locking the focus on that object will solve the problem.
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This question was designed to confuse digital camera buyers when selecting a digital camera.
How do you determine how many mega-pixels will be adequate for your photographic needs? The answer depends on what you plan on doing with the finished pictures.
Firstly, you need to understand what a pixel is. In terms of digital prints, a pixel simply means a dot of color that makes up the image. A mega-pixel is equal to one million pixels. The more mega-pixels a camera has, the greater the amount of information it records.
The easiest way to decide what to look for is to know what size prints you are likely to print from your camera. A one mega-pixel camera is fine for those who don’t plan on printing photos but rather just post them on the internet. A small print, say 4 x 6, will print acceptably from this camera.
A 2 mega-pixel camera will enable you to produce good quality 5 x 7 prints and fair quality 8 x 10 prints. When you reach 4 mega-pixels you can print out excellent quality 8 x 10 prints and acceptable 11 x 17 prints and a 5 mega pixel camera will allow you to print out high quality 11 x 17 prints.
Most families find a camera in the 3.2 Mega-pixel range to be the best choice. The quality of both 5 x & and 8 X 10 prints is very good yet the files on your computer are not so large you need worry about not having enough space.
Any camera over 5 mega-pixels is unnecessary for all but professionals in photography; even then, only those who have need for poster-size prints find that many mega-pixels worth the money. Most freelance photographers find 4 or 5 mega-pixels to be sufficient for excellent-quality prints.
At the end of the day the final selection is yours. Look to what you plan on doing with your photos and then decide. In most cases spending the money for increased optical zoom and lower mega-pixels is the best choice.
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Digital cameras make taking pictures a lot easier than the one’s from yesterday. However, there is always room for improvement. Use the following tips to help make your photos go from acceptable to great.
- 1. Always be aware of the background. You don’t want to find trees growing out of people’s heads or a passing vehicle to draw attention from your subject. Sometimes moving your subject just a couple steps to either side can make all the difference.
- 2. Use available light. If your digital camera has an option to turn the flash off and it’s light enough outside to read a book then use the available light and turn the flash off. In general camera flashes are too harsh for human skin and make all of us look pale. Indoors, where there isn’t enough daylight, place your subject by a window and use your fill flash feature.
- 3. Aim your camera slightly down at the person’s face. Also don’t shoot just face on to the person, try a little to the side, a three quarter view, so that you see more of their face. Remember camera higher looking down and a three quarter view, it will slim your subject.
- 4. Remember your focus. Get closer to your subject. Fill the frame with your subject and there will be no doubt as to what the picture is saying.
- 5. Never put your subject dead center. Put your just slightly off center; not a lot just a little. When you’re shooting groups of people, find the imaginary center line of your group and put that line just a bit off center in your view through your lens or screen.
Following these tips won’t turn you into an award-winning photographer today, but you will be on your way to better, more powerful photographs that others will comment on for years to come.
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Tags: DSLR Camera Education · DSLR Cameras · digital cameras
Digital photography can be maximized to its full potential once you have the perfect camera, the proper color and the perfect lighting. Even if you have with you the latest model of digital camera, your photos will not turn out great if you are not making use of the right strategies in getting them right.
Experts in digital photography have come to realize that the digital camera is only one of the things you need to have great pictures. There are also other factors to consider so that you will not be disappointed by the result. One of them is the digital photography lighting.
Have you ever seen digital photos that seem to blur and are indistinguishable? There are a lot of cases like this. Even if you try and edit them using Photoshop or any other software, you cannot seem to get the desired lighting you want.
This is because you have not considered having the proper lighting when the photo was taken. You were thinking that the camera and its features will be able to do that for you. Yes it can. But they may not reach your expectations.
The secret to getting that perfect picture is to do it right the first time. By doing it right, it simply means that you need to think about how well or bad the lighting is in the process of taking the photo.
Below are some of the natural sources of digital photography lighting that will make your photos look terrific.
1. After sunrise and before sunset.
It is during these times that photography is at its peak. Meaning, photos turn out great when they are shot after sunrise and before sunset. Why is this so?
This is because the orange color that appears in the sky during these times adds to the colors that your digital camera is capable. Most of the time, some photos appear dull and unrealistic when they are printed because of the representation of the colors when it is printed.
The color of the environment can add a sort of brightness to your photos. In addition, it will make it easy for you to edit them on your computer once you feel that you want to put in some combination in the natural setting of the picture.
2. Sunlight.
Sunlight is one form of lighting that is very effective once you know how to modify your shots. Keep in mind that you are not capable of altering the brightness of the sun or the shadows that it can create on your photos.
It is up for you to choose the best position wherein you can make the most of the light that is emitted by the sun. Work them to your advantage. Try on different angles and see if they look perfect once frozen.
You can also make the most of the drop shadows that is created by the sunlight. Just make sure that they will not blur your photo. For minor adjustments, you can just edit the photos straight from your computer.
Shooting digital photos is not only about having the most advanced digital camera. It is also about looking for strategies and techniques that will benefit your shots. Try to shoot your photos with perfect lighting and you will see that you do not need to edit or add more colors in them.
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Haven’t we always found that looking at objects from another perspective is fascinating. This is because of the fact that we often discover new things just by looking at a familiar object from a different angle or focus. This might be the reason for people’s fascination with digital macro photography.
Digital macro photography is an art. There’s no question about that. It takes the genius of an artist to take something so ordinary and something so dismissible and turn it into something that just captures an aspect of life. For that is what art is. No art ever claimed to contain all the truths of life. Art is a reflection of the world through the eyes of the artist. By looking at a piece of art such as digital macro photography, we get to share the perspective of other people and that can be a very powerful connection.
Another thing about digital macro photography you should know is that it is not easy. You need to consider a lot of factors in order to produce great photographs. What are these factors?
1) Skills – do you actually have the skills necessary for digital macro photography? Do you have the eye for beauty that would be appreciated by people who view your photographs? That’s not all you need. You also need to have a steady hand. While taking digital macro photographs, even barely noticeable movements of the hand can ruin your picture.
You need to have the skills to use a camera properly. You need to be able to adjust the camera in order to take the picture that you truly want to appear. Sure, you can actually edit a digital macro photograph using the computer, but why should you give yourself more work than necessary?
Some people have the necessary skills naturally. However, it is still important to hone these skills by taking classes or attending workshops. Remember that digital macro photography is all about showing things in different ways. Because of this, you need to accept the fact that other people may see your work differently from the way you see it. A fresh eye never hurts.
2) Equipment – you also need the proper tools in order to express your talent. The proper tools can help you a lot if you want to achieve the effect that you want. Remember that although there are tools today that claim to be usable for any type of photography, you should try to find equipment that’s specially made for digital macro photography. This is because such equipment can definitely bring out the best in your skills.
The right equipment is essential because digital macro photography needs a lot of work in order to be perfect. If you have the right tools for digital macro photography, you will be able to achieve your goals and show your pictures the way that you want them to be seen.
3) Subject – everything is interesting when viewed in different ways. However, some subjects are more interesting than others. Some objects, when you choose them as subjects of digital macro photography, manage to amaze you with the amount of things you do not know about them. Great subjects of digital macro photography reveal worlds beyond what you can see with the naked eye. So choose your subjects wisely.
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Maybe you have heard something like this before: “The better the cameras, the better the photos.” In this effect, you might have thought of digital cameras. Many believe that these models are just a one-click away for great photos. Do you also believe on this?
Ponder on the following article and the appropriate answer will be revealed to you.
The rivalry between film cameras and digital cameras is relatively fresh. How come? Three mega pixels digital cameras have an array of choices for consumers, which is already comparable to a high quality point and shoot models. Nowadays, the same thing goes with five mega pixels digital models for excellent quality photographs. The thing is, quality photographs can be taken with ease using digital cameras.
Some of the main advantages to digital photography are:
- • pictures can be previewed immediately on the built-in LCD screen
- • costs of installing films are replaced with memory sticks or cards that are primarily reusable and can store thousands of pictures
- • the stored photographs can easily be shared by copying off the images and/or sharing the memory stick or card
- • images can easily be transformed into black and white and/or sepia and can also be cropped after the picture has been taken
However, photos under low light and taken using film and digital models are both susceptible to artifacts or granularity. Images taken by both cameras appear to be very similar can be further improved with the advent of software that can improve and manipulate the quality and details of images.
Furthermore, you can take lousy shots with the most expensive Nikon models and make great photos with the passé point and shoot cameras. It suffices to say that it is not the camera that solely makes great and even picture-perfect images. The man behind the camera can squeeze or miss a big time out of the gadget that he has.
The following presents a ten-point aid that will enable you to take photos like a pro using your digital cameras. Practice on these tips so you can maximize the expense of your gadget.
1. Those Tones Should Warm Up
Change your white balance setting from auto to cloudy when shooting sunny landscapes and outdoor portraits. This increases the yellow and red tones, thus resulting in warmer and richer pictures.
2. Use a [Sunglass] Polarizer
A polarizer should always come in handy when taking those general outdoor shooting. Polarized shots have more saturated and richer colors because unwanted reflections and glare are minimized or even removed.
If your digital camera can not accommodate a polarizer, simply place a sunglass as close to the camera lens as possible making sure that the rims of the glass will not be taken along with the image. The effect of a polarizer can be maximized when the light source is perpendicular to the object.
3. Shining Outdoor Portraits
One of the most useful and amazing features of digital cameras is the flash on or fill flash mode. This feature allows you to take control when to use the flash. It simply goes on whenever you want it available. This helps in capturing great outdoor photographs.
The camera exposes for the background first then adds enough flash to illuminate the subject when you are using the flash on option. Wedding photographers have been using this technique for many years to create professional looking portraits where everything in the composition is simply excellent.
To come up with a more relaxed photograph, try putting the subject under the shade and use the flash to add illumination.
You can also practice on using rim lighting where the sun illuminates the hair of the subject from the side or the back.
However, you should not stand that far away when using the fill flash since most built-in models have a range of 10 feet or even less.
4. Macro Mode Frenzy
I am quite sure that you would want to look at the fine details of your surroundings but would not be willing to crouch down and lie on the ground with your belly.
In that case, you just have to look for the macro mode or close up symbol, usually a flower icon, and get as close to an object as possible. Once the confirmation light signals you to shoot, just press the shutter down to record the portrait.
However, using the close up mode allows you to have a shallow depth so you can concentrate on the part of the subject that you want to emphasize and let the rest go soft.
5. Chaos of the Horizon Line
There are still photographers who become disoriented when lining up their shoots. In other words, once they look at their cameras monitor, images that are erect seem to be a little tilted or bowed inward.
The most appropriate way to take care of this matter is to take your best shot at a straight picture, then take another picture after repositioning the camera. Afterwards, you can delete the others once you feel you captured a perfectly aligned image.
Also, just practice level framing your shots until you become acquainted with the process.
6. Massive Media Card
You have to have an extra memory card especially when you want more moments to preserve. The following suggestions should be considered before buying a memory card:
a. for 3 mega pixels – a 256 MB memory card
b. for 4 mega pixels – a 512 MB memory card
c. for 6 mega pixels – 1 gigabyte memory card
Then you do not have to miss another shot because your card is full.
7. Not High Resolution All the Time
It is more advisable to squeeze more images by shooting a low quality and resolution settings than taking shots with a high resolution all the time. This way you can reserve a space and a 2272 x 1704 resolution on the next great image of the century and enough for the portrait to be printed on a 8” x 10” inch paper suitable for framing.
However, if you have enough memory (and you should), there is no reason to shoot at a lower resolution and risk missing the chance to display your work the big way.
8. Tolerate that Tripod
Tripods are “unnecessarily bulky” for some so seldom do people like to bring them around.
Nowadays, there is an ingenious way to settle the dilemma whether to bring a tripod around or to do without it. The UltraPod II™ developed by Pedco fits in your back pocket and holds your camera steady in various situations.
You can use the Velcro™ strap to attach your camera on a tree limb or an available pole. Its legs can be opened on any flat surface or even on a boulder.
Now, you can be a real photographer without carrying a heavy burden.
9. The Fun with Self Timer
Another under-used feature on almost every digital camera is the self timer. This function can be used to save the photographer for missing the picture by delaying the firing of the shutter up to 10 seconds.
You can attach your UltraPod™ to ensure that your camera will not be taken away that easily by some strangers. Of course, you need to aim at the subject and not at a distant background before setting up the timer. Also the depth of the subject should be checked too.
By using self timers, you can also avoid accidentally jarring the camera when you are interested in making long exposures of cars driving at dusk as you initiate the focus.
10. Slow Motions
Normally, you will use an exposure of one second or a bit longer to create the flowing effect of water. In this case, you have to look for waterfalls or streams that are under the shade.
One trick is to use a polarizer or your sunglasses to darken the scene and create a longer exposure. More so, this technique can also eliminate distractions from your portrait.
For a really good photographer, which implies using creativity and ingenuity, viewers often get curious and ask, “What sort of camera model do you have there?”
Would it be more humbling for them to hear that you are using a normal aim and shoot model?
Or you can simply say, “Model ME.”
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Numerous amateur as well as professional camera users are shifting to digital models for much ease, convenience, and efficiency when taking initial pictures, taking more pictures after deleting some, and finally sharing photos to friends or storing them into the computer’s memory.
Camera users are normally classified as hobbyists, novice, and professionals. To whichever category you belong, it is suggested that you ponder and accommodate the following basic information about digital cameras:
1.) Categories of cameras
Cameras can be grouped into:
a. ultra compact – no flash mode
b. prosumer or compact – for hobbyists
c. digital SLR cameras – have lenses, tripod, and external flashes; for professionals
If you want to master the art of photography, it is suggested that you master using the third category. Models that fall under this category are priced for their resolution, among other things.
2.) Mega pixels
Mega pixels can be classified into:
a. 3 mega pixels – for basic snapshots
b. between 3 and 5 mega pixels – images have good print quality
c. between 5 and 7 mega pixels – images can be easily manipulated; larger print sizes can be made
3.) Zoom
A camera’s zoom is normally categorized into two:
a. optical zoom factor – what is distant appears closer by magnifying the light entering through the main lens
b. digital zoom factor – magnifies the resulting image
Quality photographs depend mostly on the optical zoom factor.
4.) Storage media
These are the some common storage formats:
a. Compact Flash (for compact and DSLRs)
b. Sony Memory Stick (compatible with other Sony appliances)
c. Smart Media
Storage sizes normally range from 64 K, which can store 3 dozen mega pixel images; 1G can store about 500 images with the same mega pixels
5.) Carrying case
You should keep the camera and its accessories in place.
6.) Tripod
Tripod can be used when setting the timer mode on and keeping the focus stable.
7.) Lenses and Filters
There are digital cameras that allow additional lenses to be attached to the main lens, or the lenses can be completely interchangeable.
Lenses can be categorized as follows:
a. macro lens – allows you to get closer to objects like insects and flowers
b. wide-angle lens – used for capturing landmarks, and large and wide sceneries
c. telephoto lens – allows longer zooms that let you get close to objects that are rather unsafe
Filters, on the other hand are used to:
a. soften the effect of the image
b. provide blurring on the edges for portraits that have sensitive moods
c. add light flares for the image to be more dramatic
d. to reduce glare so that pictures appear more saturated, crisp, and vivid.
Here are some basic strategies on how to capture an image:
1. Holding the camera
You should hold the camera steadily and keep your spare fingers from interfering with the lens. This skill usually takes a few practices.
2.) Focusing
To keep the camera from shuddering, it is better to half-press the camera until you are able to lock your view on the focus before completely pressing the button of the shutter.
You may also use a tripod for better focusing.
3.) Previewing
Take and retake pictures if necessary after previewing them in your LCD screen.
4.) Archiving
Keep an album of your best photographs so that you can refer to them as you keep on working your way to being great photographers.
Once you have mastered using your simple compact and especially digitals SLR cameras, you can surely capture photos using other cameras with great ease and perfection. That is a guarantee!
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You’ve seen the dreaded demon-eye effect that occurs when the camera flash bounces off the eye of a person or pet. An otherwise wonderful picture can be ruined by this. Technically, this is called red-eye and is caused when the pupil of your subject’s eye is wide open and the light from the camera’s flash reflects off the subjects retina. In people, the color ends up red; in pets, the color is often green.
Most photo editing programs include a red-eye correction filter, but this may not allow your photograph subject to appear “normal. These filters also do not work on the green effect produced in a pet’s eyes. Photo stores sell pens that are used to clear up red-eye, but again they are not always natural-looking and do not work on the green. The best thing is to prevent the demon-eye effect from the start.
It is rare to find a digital camera that does not come with a red-eye reduction feature. This feature can be turned off or on. It is best left on in all circumstances other than direct sunlight. The red-eye reduction feature works by flashing a short burst of light at your subject before you snap the picture. This burst of light causes the subject’s pupil to close and makes it less likely for the camera’s flash to reflect off the retina. This in turn reduces the chance of red-eye.
It also helps to direct the flash of your camera so it does not directly hit your subject’s eyes. Bouncing the flash off a nearby wall or other object will soften its effect and reduce the chances of this unwanted malady. Between bouncing the flash and using your digital camera’s red-eye reduction feature, your little angel, whether human or animal, will have eyes that don’t glow.
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The majority of photographers in 2009, whether amateur or professional, have a digital camera. While regular film cameras still exist and are quite popular, there is nothing like saving money on film developing and being able to see a live review of your photos at the moment you take them. These are the benefits of a digital camera but, in order to enjoy these perks, we have to understand the importance of memory cards.
Memory cards are small devices that fit inside the digital camera and store each photo that we take. It allows for us to review the images immediately and also permits us to make actual prints. If you have ever strolled by the express photo department in a local retail store, you are likely to see a large machine that resembles a copier.
This is a unit that often provides actual photos, within minutes, from the use of memory cards and other digital media. Upon closer inspection, you may notice that the unit has a small slot for memory cards to be inserted. At that time, it then begins to read the contents and display the results on screen for photo selection.
An individual can select which photos to print and what, if any, retouches are to be made. Upon completing the order, print photos are usually available within seconds and are disbursed in a tray beneath the unit.
Because memory cards are so important to the operation of our digital camera, they must be kept as safe as possible. The best way to ensure the safety of memory cards is to keep them away from extreme heat or cold, avoid prolonged exposure to the sun and keep them away from water at all times. It is best not to handle the cards excessively, but rather store them inside your digital camera for added security.
Memory cards are designed to hold a certain number of photos, which is determined based on the capacity of the card. If you plan to take a lot of photos or simply wish to have ample space without having to continually buy memory cards, consider a model that holds a lot of photos. For the occasional picture taker, basic memory cards will be ideal with a less than 100 image capacity.
When shopping for memory cards, make sure that the product you choose is compatible with your camera and is made by a well known manufacturer. Memory cards are readily available in the electronics section of most retail stores and online at any electronics or specialty retailer.
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If you have ever photographed your weekend outing, family reunion, or a special vacation getaway with your friends or family, you know that outdoor photography can present some very special challenges. This is true even for the most seasoned photographer. Direct sunlight can be harsh.
Unwanted objects can interfere with your composition. Proper color rendering can be problematic. And many times, good old Mother Nature is just not feeling cooperative. Perhaps, there’s not much that can be done about Mother Nature, but with some practice and patience you can overcome many of the other challenges you face as an outdoor portrait photographer.
Along my journey as a photographer I’ve learned some outdoor techniques that may benefit those who choose to follow:
1. Keep it simple. The subtle pattern and color of an adobe wall, the simple repeating pattern and muted tones of planks on a fishing pier, or the uniform color of a patch of blue bonnets, snapdragons, or yellow primrose can serve as wonderful backdrops for your outdoor portraits.
When you are composing your portrait, you want your subject to be the focal point that all eyes are drawn to. Busy patterns, large areas of excessively vibrant colors (especially a mixture of different colors), or over imposing forms in your foreground or background that are not treated properly, can really distract from her if you are not careful.
2. Control the depth of field (the range of distances from your camera that are in focus). The edge of a forest, or mountains in the distance may render beautifully as a backdrop for your subject with proper control over the depth of field.
If you have an SLR camera, you can adjust your depth of field to bring the background more or less out of focus relative to your subject. This serves as eye control for the observer of your portrait. The eye is naturally drawn to what is brightest and most sharply focused. If your subject is sharply focused relative to the background, she will be accentuated as the focal point of your portrait.
Controlling the depth of field is accomplished by adjusting your aperture setting (the size of your lens opening, expressed in f-stops). The smaller the f-stop the larger the opening of your lens, and the smaller the depth of field will be. For instance, when you see a photograph in a nature magazine of a beautiful butterfly in a patch of flowers, and the butterfly is in razor sharp focus but the flowers are gently blurred; this was accomplished by the photographer using a narrow depth of field (small f-stop setting).
For bright light situations this may be difficult to achieve. For any given intensity of light, as you open up the aperture (lower the f-stop) you must increase the shutter speed (thereby decreasing exposure time) to avoid over exposure. Increasing the shutter speed generally reduces resolution in the image. Experiment to find the combination of aperture setting and shutter speed that gives the result you desire.
3. Be mindful of distracting objects behind your subject. What is plainly a bush, a mailbox, or a birdhouse to your eye, can appear like an extra appendage growing out of the top of your subject’s head in your two dimensional portrait.
You may get some interesting effects this way, but generally they will not make a good impression on your subject. Take the time to find an interesting angle that eliminates distracting objects from the background.
4. Control the light. “Down light” (e.g. harsh midday light) is generally undesirable. Due to the shadow patterns it creates, it can bring out the worst in your subject … can anyone say, “Raccoon eyes”? “Lateral light” (e.g. early morning and late afternoon light) is much more desirable. Lateral light can be controlled and directed to create beautiful shadow patterns across the face of your subject.
There is a saying with many photographers who shoot outdoors, “the first tree in the forest is best” for a background. The reason is, the canopy of the first tree controls the harsh down light, but being on the edge of the forest, you still have lateral light to work with. The same idea holds true for porches or the edge of any other type of overhang.
Professional photographers sometimes use shade cloth and reflectors to block down light while directing available lateral light to enhance their subject and achieve their desired effect.
5. Correct the color. Before the digital age, corrective filters or special films were mostly used for color correction in outdoor portraits. With digital cameras, the color can be corrected using your white balance setting (expressed as color temperature in degrees Kelvin).
Most digital cameras today do a pretty good job of automatically adjusting the white balance for outdoor exposures. If you would like to experiment with your manual white balance setting use the table below as a guide.
Temperature Typical Sources
1000K……. Candles; oil lamps
2400K……. Early morning sunrise
3200K……. Tungsten light bulbs
4000K……. Fluorescent
5200K……. Typical daylight; electronic flash
6000K……. Cloudy Day
7000K……. Shade
Keeping your composition simple, controlling the depth of field, and eliminating objects that may distract from your subject, all help to accentuate your subject as the focal point of your portrait. Controlling the available natural light and correcting the white balance of your photographs can reveal and enhance the true beauty of your subject.
Beyond this, make it your aim each day to unleash your creativity that you may see the world around you in fresh and unique ways. Never be content with seeing the ordinary as ordinary. Just stop and think for a moment, everything there is, is ordinary to someone.
Art is created by those with the ability to see beyond the ordinary, to interpret their world in an exceptional way, and to reflect their interpretation for others to see. So, experiment and don’t be afraid to try something new.
The world is abundant in forms, textures, colors, and patterns of light … all the handy-work of God. Grand landscapes and magnificent manmade structures are not required for great photos in the great outdoors. May Mother Nature always cooperate with you. Good day and happy clicking!
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Tags: DSLR Camera Education · digital cameras