Achieving DSLR Photographs That Are Not Blurred

Posted on September 7, 2010 by Ross

Written and contributed by our Star Photographer Marilyn Gould

You’ve spent time focusing on your subject, you have the correct angle, the best of lighting and your subject is positioned on the best focal point. All is ready and you snap the photo. An exceptional shot and one to be proud of. But in viewing it on your computer monitor, comes the dreaded words “Oh, No!” Your DSLR picture is out of focus. More than likely this is the result of camera shake.

Keep in mind the view that your camera sees must not be altered in any way. In simple words – the camera should not move. Due to this I suggest making use of a tripod. Obtaining sharply detailed photos can be a hard thing to accomplish. In fact there’s no getting around it in my opinion. You simply cannot hold a camera as steady as the tripod can. There are plenty of types of tripods but my best advice is to procure the best quality one you can afford. I remember my Grand-dad saying “you get what you pay for”. Well, those words ring true. From personal experience I found that the more pricey tripods are sturdier and stronger than the less expensive ones on the market.

The slightest vibration or movement would have ruined this photo

Now let’s just imagine you are on a shoot, and you forgot to take the tripod with you. Don’t panic. One thing you can try is, using the top of a fence post or any steady flat surface that is at hand. Remember this as well, if you are in a location where a tripod simply is not an option, you can use a bean bag. Placed on a a car hood or a convenient ledge it makes a nice cushion. Make an indent with your fist in the middle of the bean bag. This will cushion your camera, holding it steady, and will increase your odds of getting improved focus on the subject you are photographing.

Time to readdress the subject of camera shake. We all wish to get that special picture. Despite the fact that you’re excited, keep your hands as steady as possible on the camera and gently squeeze the shutter. Avoid clicking it with force. Don’t give it a shove and quickly let go as if it were on fire, or else the camera will shake and you guessed it. You’ve lost the shot!

Not much is more upsetting to me than discovering that a one-of-a-kind picture has turned out blurred. This can also occur if your subject moves just as you are taking the photograph. Nature photos of birds, bees, or insects are great examples where you must have lots of patience to capture those little creatures on camera. In simple words, if you observe that a part of the photo, mainly your subject, is blurry , while some parts are focused, then you’ll know the subject moved while you were snapping the shot. The good news is that digital cameras are being made more high tech nowadays, and most include what’s called stabilization control that helps to minimize blurry photos.

I take a lot of close up photos. If you also take close up shots, you might wish to set your camera on it’s macro mode. Consult your owners manual. This will enable you to take crisp, clear photos even if your camera is only a few inches away from that flower, bee or insect. Utilizing the macro setting is like looking at the flower or insect beneath a magnifying glass. The closer you get to the subject the more revealing it will be. Lastly there is one more tip that I’d like to share with you. While taking those macro shots, make sure there is sufficient natural light and don’t position yourself in such a way as to cast a shadow on your subject. Press the shutter halfway to focus, then press the rest of the way to capture your shot.

Have fun clicking !

Copyright (C) The copyright owner is Marilyn Gould. No part of this article may be reproduced by any means whatsoever without the prior written permission of the copyright owner

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How To Make Your DSLR Nature Photos Eye Catching

Posted on August 29, 2010 by Ross

Written and contributed by Marilyn Gould -  Nature Photographer from Nova Scotia

I have figured out that one of the simplest ways to produce more interesting photos, is to merely shoot from an angle. In other words, kneel slightly, shift a bit to one side or the other, and don’t always be face to face with the subject.  I have even discovered that lying down on the ground to get a specific angle, can give a dramatic impact.  Not a good idea to wear your Sunday best clothes on a photo shoot, for who knows to what lengths you will have to go to get that one exceptional shot.

Chipmunk captured by Marilyn Gould

Changing the angle can also have a genuine effect upon the light, shade and patterns on your subject.  For example: a macro shot of a spider.  The size and pattern on it will become more pronounced as a result of just adjusting the angle of the camera.  Try to avoid touching the web though with the lens, as spiders are very super sensitive.  A single little fluctuation on the web, and so long spider!

For a long time I struggled with outdoor lighting.  Everyone knows that the direction of the light alters as the sun moves across the sky.  To get a good photograph I have always thought that good lighting would cause quality photographs, but poor lighting results in , for example, unwanted shadows. which greatly effects the appearance of your subject.  In the early days, I used the normal practice of keeping the sun behind me, taking into consideration  the angle of the suns rays, which I thought was supposed to produce good photographs.

As I learned more about various outdoor lighting, (examples:  sunny days, and those days that were gloomy with some sunny breaks)  I soon changed my way of thinking. Until then my afternoon photos were dull or washed out. It did nothing to bring out detail, or provide an impression of depth.  But what could I do?  I had to work with the natural lighting that I had.  I can only suggest the following, in my opinion one of the superior times of day for photographs is when the sun is lower in the sky.  Also excellent for sunrise or sunset shots !
Then I found that during the morning hours or early evening, lighting worked more in my favor. It seemed my photos presented the most annoying problem when the sun was high in the sky.. I was ending up with such things as unsightly glare on the flower petals, and unwanted shadows in the bee photos, which totally ruined my pictures.

I am still battling with ways to take far superior afternoon shots out of doors , but for now I can only make one suggestion.  Employ a pen and notebook and mark down what the subject is that you need to photograph. A special flower for example, and take note of it’s location. Then return later when the light is more favorable or at least changed, and try taking the  photograph again.  If it’s an insect however, you may have to do a bit of searching to find it. Good luck !

Copyright (C) Owner is Marilyn Gould. No part of this article can be reproduced in any form whatsoever without the prior written permission of the copyright owner.

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DSLR Camera – Nature Photographer

Posted on August 26, 2010 by Ross

Written and contributed by Marilyn Gould

Hello…I am a nature photographer living in Nova Scotia Canada, and a few weeks ago my husband told me that I should think about writing my own photography articles. I had never given it much thought before, but he said “Sure, why not share some of the things you’ve learned with others who may be just starting out?”

So, I  sent my first attempt to  http://facts4you.net/dslr ,  a website with so many informative articles on photography. I am pleased to say that they published my first article, which appears on this site  entitled:” DSLR Nature Composition Photo Tips.” I have another article that will soon be  ready to submit, as I’ve been gratified by the response to the first one.

I am encouraged to continue writing because I feel this is a way I can make a contribution, reaching far more people  than I could one on one. I would like to thank facts4you.net/dslr  for accepting my article, and for selecting me as their star photographer of the month.  What an honor!

I’m looking forward to submitting more articles.  Thank you for your interest and support.  Marilyn Gould…Nature Photographer.

(C) The copyright owner is Marilyn Gould. This article or any part of it can not be reproduced in any form whatsoever without the prior written permission of the copyright owner.

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Tips Before You Buy Your DSLR Camera Tripod

Posted on August 25, 2010 by Ross

Okay, you have purchased your new expensive, wonderful DSLR camera plus various optional lenses you require. You are all set to take fantastic exciting digital photographs to set the world on fire?

However you may be missing one vital piece of equipment…a camera tripod!

The most simple form of  camera tripod is best described as a three-legged assembly used to stabilize and elevate your camera to obtain a vibration  and “shake free” digital photo. Camera tripods can be utilised for both still and motion imagery. Almost always used by professional photographers in their studios, a sturdy camera tripod is designed to ensure vibration free images are shot.

There are several types of camera tripod. These include both floor and tabletop models. A very basic camera tripod can be purchased for as little as $50. However prices can soar into many hundreds of dollars. For example one of my tripods which extends to a height of  almost six feet, has  pan and tilt head, level indicators,  etc; is exceptionally sturdy yet very light in weight and cost several hundred dollars.

These more expensive camera tripods provide extra features such as feet designed to function when on rough and/ unlevel ground. The pan and tilt head of the unit moves smoothly, can be locked or unlocked, and is essential for recording videos to eliminate unwanted movement and vibration. It also provides a strong and stable platform from which to compose and take digital photos of nature subjects using zoom.

Table top and compact style tripods are ideal for travelling; particularly when travelling via aircraft where room and weight can become critical factors. However, compact camera tripods often do not provide the rigidity required of a solid shooting platform unless you are prepared to invest a reasonable amount in your purchase price.

A quality camera tripod is essential for events such as when you want to shoot a family portrait and  you wish to be included in the photo.

Camera tripods make it easy to shoot multiple photos, where the subjects remain in the same location, thereby avoiding having to worry about recomposing your scene every time you shoot the next image. Using a sturdy tripod ensures placement remains  perfect.

Here are a few helpful tripod shopping tips:

  1. Firstly; consider the style of photos and/or videos you will be taking (ie; outdoor nature photos, indoor portrait; etc;);
  2. If your speciality is macro and close up digital photography and you will spend a lot of time down at ground level your requirements will be very specific and you will need specialist advice as to the ideal tripod platform for your needs.
  3. Consider the weight of your DSLR camera/video camera and lenses that will be fixed to the tripod.
  4. Consider your requirements for pan and tilt.
  5. What height tripod best meets your needs.
  6. Consider the sturdiness of the tripod platform you need

Take an extra tip from my experience. Give very careful consideration before you go out and invest a few hundred dollars in your new tripod. One that I purchased many years ago looked the perfect tripod for my needs.

However I was subsequently extremely disappointed to find that the configuration upon which the camera was fixed was insufficiently sturdy to avoid being “shaken” in reasonably strong winds! And most of my DSLR photographic work is conducted outdoors!

An expensive mistake!

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DSLR Camera Digital Noise Solutions

Posted on August 24, 2010 by Ross

Did you know that digital noise in digital photos captured with digital cameras is actually due to random pixels scattered across the digital photo image. “Noise” causes  similar problems as “grain” in film photography. The consequence is “noise”degrades the quality of the photo image.

Taking digital photos in low light is the usual cause of digital noise in a digital photo image. For example;  night photos and indoor dark scenes without flash or insufficient light sources. Or even when you use  slow shutter speeds. etc.

A digital camera utilises an electronic sensor; known as a CCD;  to measure the light for each pixel. The digital photo image is a matrix of  pixels that represent the photo.

The CCD is not perfection itself and induces a degree of noise. Sometimes referred to as white noise.  Generally in most lighting the light is much stronger than the noise. Conversely in other scenes where the light source is low noise levels can become significant and consequently pixels in the digital photo image may include more noise data than actual photo light data. Noise pixels appear as random dots  on the photo; e.g white dots scattered across the digital photo image.

Digital Noise Scenarios:

Implications of  Digital Photography in Low Light – Night photos/ Dark scenes

In a dark scene the amount of light measured by individual pixels of the CCD is low. If the  intensity of the light source is extremely low it may become  close to the level of natural noise found in the CCD. In that event pixels will appear as noise due to the fact that the noise level measured is significantly close to or higher than the actual light intensity.

Implications of Using Slow Shutter Speeds:

Slow shutter speeds may result in more noise  being introduced to the digital photo image. Slow shutter speeds translates to the CCD integrating more light per pixel. The resultant impact is that in utilising slow shutter speed some pixels will translate as noise due to the fact that for these pixels the amount of integrated noise is materially close to; and even higher than the actual light measured.

High Level Sensitivity modes:

In digital photography high sensitivity is implemented by mechanisms that result in amplification. In your digital camera the CCD amplifies the measurements. Unfortunately there is no way to simply amplify the resultant  light that falls on the CCD pixels. In fact the result is that both noise and the actual light are amplified. Consequently the CCD becomes sensitive not only to light but also to its own noise. The result is that if too much amplification is added then some pixels appear as noise.

It is virtually near impossible to totally avoid digital noise. However there are several options that permit you to significantly decrease the level of  “noise”. While taking digital photo images in low light scenarios such as night scenes there are two factors you can control.

Sensitivity and shutter speed. Increasing sensitivity boosts internal noise in the CCD. Slowing down the shutter  increases  noise to integrate on the CCD. However the degree of noise created by both parameters is variant. Reset your digital camera to manual mode. Then experiment with  different sensitivity/shutter speed combinations to determine a combination that generates the minimum level of noise.

Various digital cameras provide a built-in feature referred to as “noise reduction”. That feature is implemented via sophisticated software that identifies the “noise pixels” and eliminates them.

In the event that your digital camera does not have a built-in noise reduction feature you can use  PC based software to remove digital noise. Various digital photo processing software provide a combination of both automatic and manual digital noise removal.

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DSLR Nature Composition Photo Tips

Posted on August 23, 2010 by Ross
Written and contributed by our Star Photographer Marilyn Gould

A whole bunch of errors can occur to ruin an otherwise perfectly fine DSLR photograph.  Being in too much of a race, not heeding background disarray, ignoring placement of your main subject within the frame, are just a few of the errors I made early on.  These are the factors that can make the difference between a photograph and a snap-shot. It can all be very frustrating when you see the finished picture.

In my experience with close up pictures of nature photography, (usually flowers, bees and other insects) I’ve learned that timing is of vital importance.  You need to get setup and take the shot before the breeze moves the flowers or the insects relocate to another area. Clicking too quickly only leads to an out of focus photograph. However, I  caught on very quickly that self-control is imperative.

Before clicking the camera, try to focus on your subject, stepping up as close as you can, which is what I always try to do first. If that isn’t possible then stand back and zoom in. Keep in mind though, that if you zoom in too much, it will cut down the resolution of the photograph, which means if you plan to enlarge your prized photo, it will become grainier the larger you go in size.

The purpose for moving close or zooming in, is to avoid a cluttered background, or noise as it is known. If you simply point and shoot, things you didn’t even notice tend to pop right out in the picture and take away from the subject matter. In my opinion, a promising photo is one that draws the viewer in, no matter what the subject matter is.

At the start I thought every insect, bee or flower had to be centered with every photograph I took. Boy was I wrong! There wasn’t any variety, and after browsing through my files of photo’s, it became really boring. Then I learned about the “Rule of Thirds”, which  fixed a good number of my later photographic compositions.  It’s actually quite straight forward and in my opinion not really a rule, but rather a guideline to make your photographs more interesting.

Here’s how the “Rule of Thirds” works. Imagine a grid on your screen or viewfinder splitting it into three equal partitions horizontally and vertically, effectively dividing your field of vision into nine equal squares.  As you focus on your subject, the points where these imaginary lines intersect are the strongest focal points.
With a little repetition you too will be able to imagine the grid arrangement, as you shoot.  I must divulge I don’t use this “Rule of Thirds” for every single photograph, but I do consider it before clicking the camera.

If you’re taking a picture of a landscape your horizon should fall near to the lowest horizontal line so that the sky takes up the top two thirds of the photograph.  If there is a tree or other item of interest, it should fall near one of the vertical lines in preference to the dead center of the picture.

There are many ways to refine your DSLR photographs and this is a grand beginning.  Happy clicking!

(C) Copyright owner is Marilyn Gould. This article can not be copied or reproduced by any means whatsoever without first obtaining the written permission of the copyright owner.

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Kakadu Northern Territory – Wild Life Photos – Samsung NX10

Posted on August 20, 2010 by Ross

I returned from Darwin in Australia’s Northern Territory last Sunday. The week I spent in Darwin included a  day tour excursion out to the famous Kakadu National park, some 250 kilometres east of Darwin.

I captured some great photos using a newish “bridge category” DSLR camera, a Samsung NX10, using a 50-200mm tele-zoom lens. While not a full DSLR camera, the Samsung was ideal for use in the rather confined space of a boat full of tourists sailing along the East Alligator River.

The East Alligator river is not a place to fall over the side, nor drop an expensive piece of DSLR equipment overboard. The reason being this river is full of very huge man eating crocodiles! For that reason the NX10 was ideal. The images were not as crystal clear sharp as I would have liked as a result of being aboard a  moving, vibrating platform…a boat full of other passengers constantly on the move!

However considering that limitation the results were acceptable.

Crocodile photographed from tour boat at Yellow Waters; East Alligator River; Northern Territory; Australia – August 2010

In all my life I have never seen so much wild life packed into a river and it’s shore environs in such a short distance of travel. There were literally thousands of birds of all types including many varieties of ducks, gorgeous multi coloured Kingfishers, Cormorants, Jabirus (The emblem of the Northern Territory), and even a pair of White Sea Eagles perched at the top of a tree limb.

A pair of White Sea Eagles at the Yellow Water; East Alligator River; Northern Territory; Australia



Jabiru resting on it’s “haunches” on the shore of Yellow Waters – Northern Territory

As I mentioned earlier the Alligator Rivers are full of  man eating crocodiles. Now I realise that the name of these rivers is a bit crazy as there NO alligators in the Northern Territory. The name originated as a result of one of the early explorers mistaking the crocodiles for alligators. However the name Alligator River stuck! Now; the following photo of an enormous crocodile on the Yellow Water in Kakadu National Park should convince any “Crocodile Dundee” types NOT to swim in these waters!

Huge very well fed Crocodile resting between meals – Yellow Water – Kakadu National Park

The Samsung NX10 and it’s associated optics were most impressive on this trip to the Northern Territory of Australia. Sometimes one thinks the world of DSLR and Bridge DSLR cameras cant get any better…then along comes a little wonder like the NX10!

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Bird Photo Ideas For Your DSLR Camera

Posted on August 19, 2010 by Ross

The world of Bird life is wildly abundant. For that reason alone birds provide an almost endless source of subjects for the nature DSLR camera photographer. Birds provide an inspiring natural beauty.

Capturing images of birds with our DSLR cameras, both at rest and in full flight can provide a tremendous visual impact.

We are all aware that certain geographical locations on our planet attract huge varieties of bird life in their millions. Last week I visited the South Alligator River in Kakadu National Park in the Northern Territory. (Photos to be posted on this blog shortly).

While enjoying a fantastic boat trip through a region called Yellow Water to view wild crocodiles I became more fascinated photographing the enormous variety of bird life both on the wild water and on the shoreline.

However you dont have to visit the South Alligator River to photograph birds. Your own backyard may surprise you with the amount of bird life visiting your property daily. For example birds are busy little bodies. By simply placing a bird feeder in your backyard you will attract birds into your own backyard. Then you can shoot great images with your DSLR camera of bird’s feeding, coming and going from the comfort of your home.

If you leave your backyard to seek out birds to photograph did you know that your car may prove the ideal place from which to photograph birds? The reason is that birds observe your car as less of a threat than a human sneaking along the shoreline of a lake carrying a  DSLR camera assembly with a long lens underneath their arm.

Your car or SUV provides a perfect blind from which to photograph bird life. Of course you will require a degree of patience. After you locate a great location such as a feeding ground near a lake; for example; make sure you park your vehicle some way from the location. Turn off your engine and get your DSLR camera gear ready!

Your DSLR standard, wide-angle and short zoom lenses can be used for photographing birds. However for serious bird photography, you really need a quality 500 mm or 600 mm telephoto lens for your DSLR camera.

Make sure that you avoid situations that places stress on the birds.  You can be sure that if you observe a bird showing stress, that may indicate that there is a nest or young chicks close by.

An associate of mine obtains the most fascinating images of bird life as well as other forms of nature. Visit her blog to see her amazing images.

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SELECTING THE RIGHT DSLR CAMERA LENS

Posted on August 17, 2010 by Ross

At some time each interchangeable-lens (DSLR)  camera owner faces the usually pleasant dilemma of selecting the most appropriate lenses to purchase, and of course next deciding which to use in any specific shooting situation.

As there are no definitive rules to follow a lot depends upon your personal style as well as which DSLR camera lenses you already possess. In order to assist you to determine which lenses to buy,and how best to utilise them,   the following will be useful

1.Normal lenses:

Many photographers opt for a short zoom in preference to a 50mm. However each of these lenses possess their individual virtues. For those who need a fast, general-purpose lens in the f/1.4-f/2 range for available-light work, there is not much to beat a 50mm.

Normal Lens Positives:

Generally more compact and lighter than a short zoom; usually less costly; invariably very sharp; offers brighter viewing image.

Normal Lens Negatives:

No zoom and you need to compose your shot by moving the camera.

2. Short and Normal Zoom Lenses

Conversely a short zoom provides framing flexibility. A DSLR short zoom  often comes in a package not much larger than a 50mm lens. The 35-70mm f/3.5-4.5 is often the smallest and least expensive alternative. However a 28-70mm f/3.5-4.5 is most useful for photographing interiors, vistas, and cramped quarters due to the fact it can get down to 28mm. If you photograph portraits, nature, or sports from a close range, you should consider a compact 35-105mm or a 35-135mm zoom.

Normal Zoom Positives:

Normal zoom is equivalent to two or more single focal length lenses in a neat, responsive package. A normal zoom offers intermediate focal lengths; and of course there is less requirement to switch lenses.

Normal Zoom Negatives:

Moderate aperture which is usually f/3.5-4.5; limits low-light shooting and focusing precision with manual focus, affects viewing brightness. A zoom lens is invariably larger, heavier and can cost more than 50mm lenses.

3. Wide-Angle Lenses:

Wide – Angle lenses  can range from 24mm; which borders on ultrawide; to 35mm which borders on semiwide. The selection is between very compact, single-focal-length lenses of relatively wide aperture (f/2-f/2.8, a few f/1.4s) and moderate-aperture zooms (around f/3.5-4.5), which provide superior framing flexibility.

4. Ultrawide- Angle Lenses:

Ultrawide – Angle lenses range in focal lengths of 21mm and below. These DSLR lenses provide extreme angular coverage of 90 degrees; plus.

Ultrawide – Angle Positives:

As a consequence of low image magnification, ultrawides provide great depth of field. They are more likely to provide sharp-looking images when handheld at slow shutter speeds. Ultrawides are superb for expanding tight interior spaces, capturing vistas;  intimate photojournalism and street photography.

Ultrawide – Angle Negatives:

Apparent perspective distortion, though useful for dramatic or comic effects, is problematic in portraiture. Make sure you avoid placing subjects close to the edges of the frame or aprominent feature, such as nose, in the foreground.

5. Medium Tele Lenses:

Often referred to as portrait lenses,  the 85-135mm range of lenses are ideal for portraiture, minimizing apparent perspective distortion, and provide convenient working distance when photographing faces close up. A lot of tele zoom lenses work well in this range, however they are heavier, longer, and slower than single focal length lenses. If you shoot mainly portraits, then consider buying a 85mm f/2, 100mm f/2, or 105mm f/2.5, even if you own a tele.

Medium Tele Positives:

Medium Tele Lenses permit discreet photography of people without the perspective-flattening effect of long teles; single focal length type combines fast aperture, bright viewing image, good image quality.

Medium Tele Negatives:

With reference to zooms, refer to comments above; for single focal length, fairly specialized.

6. Long Tele Lenses:

Usually a lens over 135mm  is a long tele.  By far the most popular are zooms in the 80-200mm or 70-210mm range. Without a requirement for a lens that’s very fast and very long, a tele zoom is by far the most flexible and economical choice.

For the majority of photographers, a 70-210mm f/3.5-4.5 (especially one with macro) is the only long tele lens they require.

Long Tele Positives:

Acceptable size and weight  and price. Suitable for a wide range of uses; nature, sports, people, portraits, scenics.

Long Tele Negatives:

Offers moderate to variable aperture. Usually provides a mediocre performance unless stopped way down. Many suprisingly compact 100-300mm f/5.6s are now on offer for photographers needing a bit more reach. Then there are a number 0f fine 200-500mm f/5.6s for photographers requiring really long teles for  long-distance sports close-ups.

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Photographing Winter Landscape Tips

Posted on August 4, 2010 by Ross

Snowy, icy winter produces the toughest elements in a cold climate. A lot of amatuer photographers put their DSLR camera gear away until early spring. However those photographers then miss out on the raw, rugged beauty  of an icy, snow bound winter photographic scene.

Try out these tips to make your winter DSLR photography a real winner:

1. Check the weather forecast before venturing out:   the weather can  change dramatically in a matter of hours during the winter months. Wet weather and DSLR photography dont mix well. While you can achieve dramatic photo images in moody lighting on a wet or snowy day, you need to take  precautions to ensure your expensive camera gear is not damaged. Common sense has to prevail!

3. Take only essential photographic equipment with you: If you intend photographing all day then travel as lightly as possible.  Carrying a heavy load on a cold day will put you off climbing icy rocks or crossing snow filled hills to capture that once in a lifetime photo. A hot flask will be more welcome than a third DSLR camera.

4. Capture the detail with your DSLR camera:  Snowy, icy, frosty environments can bring out deep texture and atmosphere in most landscape subjects. Frosty mornings can be ideal times for close-up photography. Frosty mornings can  also draw out unusual patterns in a  wintry landscape.

5. Position your camera shots with care: when capturing photo images early in the morning  place your DSLR at an oblique angle to the sun. Your camera will then obtain images with strong shadows and add mood and drama to your wintry landscape images.

6.Accurate exposure is essential: Undoubtedly snow and ice are extremely difficult to expose properly. Snow scenes will often confuse your DSLR cameras metering system and even your hand held light meter. Remember this: when obtaining a light reading from a snowy landscape scene you will automatically get an underexposed image. Your light meter will record the snow as grey.

Try bracketing your shots. When bracketing your  DSLR photo shots add 1 – 2 stops of light to compensate for your light meter reading. Using an 18% grey card which should also produce a perfect light reading.

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